ARTWEAR DESIGNS IN GLASS BY Ingrid Hein
Tutorial EDP  better called SDP   Sweet Dreamy Purple!

Feb 2008 addendum: I discovered this week that when working edp and checking for color development, you need to take off your flameworking glasses to SEE.  These glasses tend to make things look PINKER. It made a difference for me and I knew when I had to continue to color up the beads.

  Moretti Glass- "Special" "Expensive" "Hand Pulled" Whatever they are called, I am posing  a theory on glass colors that have been called difficult or evil. The basis of my theory is this glass will separate based on temperature gradients such as are found in these ends of Moretti Purple. Picture below of  the ends of hand pulled canes.

The rods in question are those that have concentric rings of color inside the rod and can be viewed by looking at the end. I am using Moretti purple since this was the glass that led me to my suppositions. This is not the greatest picture but it is good enough to demonstrate the internal concentric bands of color variation from batch to batch. When a glass gather is pulled, the gather will cool from the outside in. This means that there will be different temperatures in various layers as they cool . The variation appears to cause the glass components to separate, hence the concentric bands.

 A perfect example is Moretti Purple sometimes or all too often called Evil Devitrifying Purple. My history with this glass was initially brief. I melted it and reheated and it devitrified. I put it on the shelf and didn’t touch it for 6 months. In the picture to the left you will also notice that not all rods of this color are equal. Personally I would prefer the rods that have the X by them for more than one reason. First the colors are more intense and secondly the the cooling seems to have produced a thicker layer of the color that I want.

HOW DID I COME TO MY CONCLUSIONS? When you melt a rod of purple and lay the rod down the tip of the rod looks different than the rest of the rod. The tip is more transparent and the color is more intense. This mean t to me that with heating the rod these various components are homogenized and on cooling they quickly separate out just as the do when the initial batch is pulled. The color bands inside the rod are examples of the glass components separating at different temperatures. After heating the rod and forming a gather I lay the rod down. The color at the tip of the rod of Moretti purple was the color I wanted. Why did it separate?

 Because the glass behind the tip is cooler than the glass at the tip.
 The tip enters a rapid cool.
 When you are making a bead the interior is hotter than the exterior.
 So when reheating the bead it will often give you either
 evil devitrification or a pale color(like the color of the outside of the rod)  rather than the color of the tips of these rods.

If you don't want the color of the tips you probably don't have to do anything different. The base color of the rod is easy to obtain.

My method of dealing with this glass is to let the bead cool down
(for a small donut of say 15mm I would say 20-30 seconds) and then just introduce it to the flame to get a surface glow all around the perimeter. 
This takes less than 2 seconds.

I bring the bead up under the flame and wait (1 second maybe 2) to see the glow and then rotate the bead toward me. (There is a reason why I rotate toward me but I am not sure it is relevant.) In essence I wanted the bead to cool the way the tip of the rod did. I needed the core cooler than the exterior. Then just bring the exterior to a glow. So how long do you let the bead cool? I have never timed it but you can work this out for yourself. If the bead shows devitrication at the edges of the flame, the interior was too hot. If it breaks, it was too cool. * Generally I might have a small amount of devitrification in the pucker. This generally is does not detract from the wearability of the bead.
AS A SURFACE TREATMENT:
Moretti purple colors up the most when used as a surface treatment on an opaque base. This makes perfect sense since there is so little of it on the surface that rapid cooling is a given.

One other property of this glass has to do with its willingness to separate. Corina Tettinger published in her book a look called “kaleidoscope.”
This takes advantage of another property of this color- the willingness to separate. When applied to the surface of a bead and melted beyond flat, the glass continues to migrate.  The opaque component is left behind and the transparent continues to flood outward. The transparent component spreads out faster than the opaque and you will get lines that form at the spreading edge of the glass with a concentration of color in the center.

Corina's Kaleidoscopes. These beads take advantage of moretti purple to separate. Ok this isn't the greatest bead or photo but you get the idea. The x's show where the purple separated and the more transparent component migrated out over the coral. The x's here show the lines formed over the coral from the dots of purple. For this effect you really do need to let your bead cool and reheat or you will get devitrification. Just looking at the dots of purple you can see the opaque color isn't as intense and the edges are not clear...because the transparent component to the edp has migrated that far out over the coral. OK this is a work in progress. I would appreciate comment, corrections, questions. You may email me:

EMAIL ME WITH QUESTIONS-
SUGGESTIONS OR FURTHER POINTS TO PONDER!